Sounds, Conveyances, and a last hurrah for Kerala

To start off- we apologize for the horrible spelling errors in the previous blog...

A traditional Hindu meal is a Sadya (which means banquet in Malayalam) and is served on a banana leaf and eaten with your hands- mixing spicy, sweet, light, and heavy curries with sauces and pickled things.

Also it's Lake Vembanad- which is the longest lake in India..  

Our house boat cruised the lake and then up into the backwaters. When we got off in the evening, we found ourselves in the middle of a deeply green rice paddy. As we walked a couple miles through the rice paddies we couldn't help but notice the dazzling array of ways that people get around South India. Note that we are carrying umbrellas- pretty much all anyone needs to stay dry in the monsoon.

Buses (with umbrella)-

Fancy cars (with umbrella)-

Bikes (with umbrella)-

tuk-tuks (with umbrella)

Motor bikes-- everybody now-- WITH UMBRELLA!

On the same walk a young man asked us what we thought about where we were. We told him how beautiful we thought it was and it was clear how proud he feels about his land and how glad he was to welcome others to see and experience Kerala.

Here are two girls- living along the canal- that screamed hello across the rice paddy.

The other thing that struck us as we walked was that the sounds of India tell entire stories themselves.

The 6pm call to worship-

Night sounds on the canal-

The horns and hoots driving anywhere- with Chennai being the masterpiece.


The next morning we got off of the houseboat and drove to purity- a wonderful home stay-- turned hotel-- right on the banks of the lake. We spent spent the afternoon relaxing and that night went out on the lake with a local fisherman named Sabu. We helped his friends catch tiger prawns, and then Sabu showed us his Chinese fishing net. It was before sunset so there was nothing much in there- prime fishing time is at night when the fisherman attract fish to their net with an electric light (Deirdre Lord you'll be glad to know that most fisherman on the lake now use LEDs)

Oh and by the way- here's a

#selfieonacanoe (actually #usieonacanoe...)

Almost forgot!

#selfieonahouseboat

Yesterday with started our day with yoga by the lake led by Krishna, a 74 year old master. Here is what we should all aspire to do at the age of 74...

He is awesome!

We then had breakfast and went on a tuk-tuk tour- but it was nothing compared to Johnson!

Highlights of the day included-

Sadya and an Ayurvedic massage that included the pouring of hot herbal oils on our foreheads until we fell asleep (Tim says he has never slept so well in his entire adult life).

Today we are back in Fort Kochi for one night. We were reunited with Johnson, who toured us around the spice and ginger markets (we saw a lot of the Ayurvedic remedies in their purest form). We saw the Johnson's church- Santa Cruz Basilica- where he and both his sons were baptized. He hopes his one-day-old grandson will be baptized there too!

We cannot be tonight is our big farewell dinner- for two- the stories we have seen and heard in India will stay with us forever. Thanks to everyone who has made our trip so unforgettable!

Annie and Tim :)

A Quick Update

We apologize for our radio silence. We spent a night on a house boat, and now we are relaxing in purity hotel on the banks of Lake Venambad. Our wifi service here is limited, so this blog is a quick explantation to, as mentioned above, our radio silence.


BUT! No worries- because tomorrow we will be posting our biggest blog yet. Photos, videos, conveyances, and sounds of our last few days in India.


Recent highlights of our trip have been:

• Walking through an endless rice patty has the 6pm call to worship floated across the sea of green. 
• Nights sounds- crickets, frogs, splashes- in the Backwaters of Kerala.
• Paddling through the lake with a local fisherman, helping one of his friends chase down a tiger prawn.
• Yoga with a 74 year old master, once math teacher, Krishna... (Of course Tim now says he's giving up biking and running for yoga- after just one hour!) 
• A ritual Hindu lunch called a Settee (we'll check spelling when we have better internet access!)... no forks, knives, or spoons allowed and flavors the copliment each other- from sweet to spicy back to sweet! 

More tomorrow! We promise!!

Annie and Tim :)

Nutmeg and Elephant Selfies

Yesterday we drove along the Arabian from Cochin to Lake Vembanadu, and into the foothills of the Western Ghat Mountains. 

A tree temple on the Arabian Sea-

We arrived at serenity (at Kanam estate)- out hotel and a working rubber and spice farm- and loved the fact that it felt so tropical. After lunch on the porch of our room (overlooking a tropical valley- during which we whipped out our binoculars to watch a trio of parrots playing in the valley below) we went of a walking tour of the farm and village,

We saw:

• A clove tree (sadly out of season)
• A cinnamon tree whose bark smelled incredible!
• A coffee tree
• Pepper plant (did you know that all four types of pepper ((black, green, white, red)) come from the same plant? It just has to do with harvest and drying!)
• Banana tree (one fruit bundle and that tree is useless!)
• A pineapple plant
• Tapioca plant
• Mangosteen tree
• Papaya tree
• Cacao plant (once very common- but when the Portuguese brought over rubber plants they became king) 
• Rubber trees- main crop of Kanam 
• and finally... Nutmeg (did you know that one male nutmeg tree can keep an entire orchard blooming?) 

A cacao pod-

Freshly broken open nutmeg (the red is mace) 

And today we met our new besty Lakshmi. Lakshmi is a little on the larger side but openly admits its and embraces her heft. She loves fruit and tried to get us to eat some with her but we really can't eat like she does. She tall- taller than Annie- with a smooth and graceful gate (nothing like Tim's). Back to her eating habits- she's a very enthusiastic eater- she will rip plants right out of the ground when hungry. Her nose is her most prominent feature (sort of like Tim). Only she stretcher hers to it's full range of usage: bathing herself, feeding herself, sniffing and saluting new friends...

...you've hopefully realized now that Lakshmi is not human...

...she's an  elephant! Whom we spent a couple of hours with this morning. She usually spends her time carrying big logs- so we hope carrying us was more like a vacation! We even gave her a bath as a thank you. Here she is in all her glory- and here we are in our first ever elephant selfie! 

Annie feeding Lakshmi some jack fruit-

Tim... poetry in motion (of course he claimed to be a natural- please...)-

 A big hello-

#elephantselfie

p.s. we ended the day with a cooking demo- Tim claims it will be part of his arsenal in the fall...

Kathakali... Candy making... Conjugally frustrated elephants... (This post: PG-13)

Last nights, after arriving in Kerala and driving to Cochin, where we are staying in an art-filled awesome hotel we went to see some Kathakali.

Wow.

Admittedly, there were times (the 20 minutes when Draupadi was repeatedly begging for a never-ending sari from Lord Krishna) when we were considering sneaking out the back and hoping we wouldn't seem like rude Americans.

But there were also moments of wonder- the conch shell being blown, the make-up, the intensity of the singer/cymbal player (who followed every moment with his eyes closed)- and moments of pure engagement- Evil Dussasana's entrails being eaten by Bhima, who then washed his wife's hair with Dassasana's blood- while the drums were pounded and the cymbals wailed.

Setting up the stage-

Lord Krishna-

 Now to today!

After a delightful breakfast at Malabar house, we went on a tuk-tuk ride. Our driver, whose friends call him Magic Johnson, was amazing.

WE INTERRUPT THIS POST TO INFORM YOU OF AN EPIC DOWNPOUR- POUNDING ON THE ROOF OF OUR HOTEL AND ON THE COURTYARD OUTSIDE. (It is monsoon, after all!)

Back to our "Ferrari" ride, as many drivers call it...

A tuk-tuk (picture from Chennai)

Magic Johnson not only drove us to the Monttancherry Palace, amazing Hindu murals, and the Jewish Synagogue/museum, but he also gave us a glimpse into the daily life of people here in Kerala. We weaved through back streets and alley ways, peered into people houses, saw the town laundry, saw candy being made by hand (as Magic Johnson said- no factories here!), and...

Laundry house-

Hindu mural-

Local man making candy-  

...the remainder of this post is PG-13...

We saw the Hindu temple's elephant, who is currently in a sort-of quarantine due to his crazy state. His metal state is caused by what Magic Johnson claims to be the lack of women in this poor elephants life. Once a year the elephant goes into this state and it takes him a MONTH to pull out of it.

And we close with a video of a local plant called touch-me-not that folds up when one touches it.

Magic Johnson: Do you know what this is called?

Tim: (with intrigue) No.

Magic Johnson: Nickname... This is... English Name 'touch-me-not'

Tim: (earnestly) Touch me not!

Magic Johnson: In my language... it is 'woman'

Tim: (hearty laughs)


Until next time!

Thank you St. Hilda's & St. Hugh's Chengalpattu!

Today was an incredible last day at the school.

We arrived and found out that there was a surprise government inspection! Luckily, we had time before they came to rehearse. The 9th standard and 11th standard had the opportunity to perform for each other, it was the first time they had a real audience! It was very fun doing our daily warm ups and improv with the entire group.

After lunch (and the government inspection) it was time for make up! some shied away and claimed to have skin allergies (boys are the same all around the world!), some pretended to shy away, but secretly loved it, and some fully embraced it!

Four thoughtful teachers came upstairs to help put make up on 75 performers' faces. Here is Ms. Janet, who worked with us all the way through our time at St. Hilda's- she was an amazing collaborator!

After we had changed into our Indian clothing...

... it was time for the show! The show included the Indian National Dance, a Tamil dance, a play by the "Maths" club, the social (which included special effects- rain (aka a hose), and of course, the Panchatantra tales! It was a joyful, funny, talent-filled afternoon!

The 9th Standard-

The 11th Standard (and Annie)-

Indian National Dance-

The "Maths" Club dance- featuring famous mathematicians!! 

On a side note: Here are a few animal sightings

• A monkey by the tin-roofed toll booth (scrounging for  bots of coconut)
• Cows- everywhere! Including a cow walking down the middle of the road (with cars carefully weaving around her)
• Dogs- everywhere! Especially in the school yard...
• Goats wandering around Mamallapuram
• Crows flocking to the Sea Shore Temple for handouts...
• Lizards scurrying on the walls around school
• Parrots trained to tell your fortune sitting with men scattered around Mamallapuram 

We will miss everyone at the school very much but will never forget our time spent there. It was so wonderful to meet so many caring, generous people. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Until next time....

Our next post will be from Kerala!

Mamallapuram, Hilarity, and Generosity

Our rehearsal with the 11th standard was outstanding. The students are very very funny and engaged. Today they led the vocal warm-ups and laughed all the way through the improv games. Tomorrow they'll perform their "dramas" on the outdoor stage.

The 9th standard made huge stripes today and have memorized their entire scripts. Ms. Janet, one of the teachers at the school, is an amazing person to work with. Hopefully they will perform these plays in the future and Janet can help teach younger students.

Tim had said that biryani was one of his favorite foods, so one of the teachers made both chicken and vegetable biryani for Annie and Tim. One of the many examples of generosity today.

In the afternoon, Annie played with the 5th and 6th standards. Both the girls and boys were interested in learning about NYC and one girl asked quite adorably, "Do you speak Tamil there?" A fair question when everybody at St. Hilda's & St. Hugh's Chengalpattu speaks English.

After a very productive day at the school, Suresh drove Mr. Nelson, a teacher, and us to Mamallapuram, a town on the coast of the India Ocean filled with single-stone carvings/hindu temples covered in statues of characters of the Mahabharata- at sunset no less!

While the temples were beautiful, it's definitely difficult maneuvering through, shall we say, sales people. Nelson and Suresh helped us navigate and at one point, entered a lengthy bargaining session. In the end, they surprised us with the girt of a beautiful stone carved elephant- which they had successfully lowered the price six fold.

Generosity part 3: Nelson and Suresh insisted on stopping in a town on the way home- flanked on either side by hilltop temples- to get the amazing girt wrapped in shiny blue paper and a red ribbon.

What an unforgettable day!

11th standard doing their daily warm-ups 

Some of the 11th graders with Tim and Annie

Fishing boats on the shore of Mamallapuram

Tim with Nelson and Suresh

A temple and more modern buildings

Tim and Annie in front of a beautiful stone carving

Throwball, Volleyball and Student Council

Day 2 was filled with many amazing moments.

After being introduced to the entire student body at morning Assembly, we walked around from class to class and got a chance to meet every student...

We began the school day by working with the 11th grade/standard. They have improved so much and the energy and excitement in the room was undeniable. Some of the 11 grade students had spoken with family members about favorite childhood stories- it was great to hear about their family members.

After teaching the 11th grade we had the chance to sit in on some classes. Tim went first to the 9th grade math class- very advanced and a great teacher even with a classroom filled with 42 students. Annie spent time with the 8th graders and had the chance to talk with some girls her age. They were kind and very funny! Annie and the girls laughed over the fact that there are crazy and talkative boys both in India and New York! Tim joined Annie in the 8th grade classroom and answered some of their questions. Favorite food? Sushi- questionable looks filled the room (prompting Annie to draw a diagram)... Chicken Biryani- loud applause...

After lunch, the 9th graders rocked it during rehearsal and some students showed a real flare for dramatics! We stopped at three, just in time for a quick tea break before Annie was invited to lead the first Student Council meeting at St. Hilda's & St. Hugh's Chengalpattu. Nishkala and the students talked about how much has been given to them as a school and how it is now their job to help raise money for other local schools. First bake sale is coming up!

Next up- sports! Tim joined the 12th grade boys for a game of Volleyball. It was deeply competitive (just how he likes it...) and his teammates taught him an overhand serve. Annie learned to play Throw Ball from  group us girls ranging in ages 13-16. (Throw Ball is similar to Volleyball but the ball is caught and thrown back instead of being hit back and forth.) Whenever someone messed up during the game, girls would cry, "OMG! OMG!"

To finish off an incredible day at the school, we had tea with many of the teachers.


Head of School looks on as students line up for morning Assembly.

Students warm up before rehearsal.

Action!

Student Council Meeting.

Things we have seen and heard so far...in just two days-

Nishkala- the Head of School- telling us about her daughters- one a stem cell scientist and the other an engineer- and about a school that once housed 165 home to 950 students- over lunch - after class-

A busy small town where the school is- South of Chennai- with men on the side of the road selling fruit-

High pitched honks of cars, three-wheeled buggies, motorbikes- one bearing a Dad and all four daughters - the youngest with a gorgeous white ribbon in her hair- in size order all on their way to school-

The honks and bleeps and horn songs are what put us to sleep at night- well, still jet lagged- so sleep when we can!

9th and 11th graders - shy at first- maybe not so sure about acting out a Panchatantra Tale- more confident for certain- asking for parts to play- so awesome in their willingness to jump in- tomorrow they return having studies their parts and with a story for us- a story that was the favorite of an older family member growing up-

Cows litter the streets- some standing- some still- some tied to a sign post- dogs travel in packs of two or three- looking for food-

Our van pulled up to the gate of the school- we were met by the Principal and all the students- wearing their blue and white uniforms- standing in a long welcoming line- two young girls placed flower necklaces around our neck as the band began to play- we walked through the lines of students and felt incredibly welcomed

The rest of the day was filled with collaboration with amazing teachers- who helped translate our ideas and direct the students-

Tired but excited or another successful day at St. Hilda's & St. Hugh's Chengalpattu







With Nishkala- the head of school

With the two girls who lead us down the path of students

Some of our 11th grade actors playing volleyball

Special Hands- Old Man Edition

Our bags are packed, and first dose of malaria medicine has been taken.  Next stop, eventually, is Chennai- midnight tomorrow night in India.  We are being picked up by a driver arranged for us by St. Hilda's Chengalpattu- and will try to sleep and then get ready for our first day at school.

We are planning to rehearse our scene today that we will be performing.  Tim is planning on playing the King as an old man- to show how to use your body to create different characters- Annie calls it "Special Hands- Old Man Edition"- Annie's not-ready-for-prime-time Princess will be played "Dumb Blonde Style."  We will let you know how it goes....Until later-

Getting Ready to Go

So- Annie and I are getting ready to leave on Saturday for Chennai and Chengalpattu.  Chengalpattu, formerly known as Chingleput, is southwestern suburb of Chennai city and Taluk in Kanchipuram district in the state of Tamil Nadu, India.

There is a school there called St. Hilda's Chengalpattu where we will be for four days next week.  We are very excited and very honored to get to go there and work on three theater pieces, one each with the 8th, 11th and 12th Grades.

The theater pieces are based on stories from the Panchatantra Tales- one of the first - if not THE first- recorded stories that used a "framing device."

In the Panchatantra, there was a King whose children were not ready to learn and not ready to rule- so he enlisted the wise storyteller Vishnu Sharma to create stories- animal fables- that would teach his children the ways of leadership and the essence of politics, diplomacy, relationships and administration.  

When we meet the students on Tuesday, I will be the King and Annie all of the children- and the teacher will narrate and explain that we will all now, as a class, be creating plays based on three Panchatantra Tales..."The Donkey and the Jackal", "The Little Mice and the Big Elephants" and "The Clever Rabbit and the Fierce Lion."  With a little bit of Pharrell's "Happy" thrown in for good measure...

More to come-